The ocean. It calls to me. Not just for the thrill of the ride, but for something deeper. A sense of peace, a feeling of connection, a chance to escape the constant noise of the modern world.
You know that feeling, don't you? The one where the demands of work, the endless scroll of social media, and the weight of the world's problems start to feel overwhelming. Where the lines between work and life blur, and the present moment slips away.
For me, surfing offers a sanctuary. Out there, on the water, there's no room for the distractions of everyday life. Just the rhythmic rise and fall of the waves, the feel of the board beneath my feet, and the salty air in my lungs.
It's a chance to truly be present, to connect with my body and the natural world around me. To feel the power of the ocean and in those moments, the worries and anxieties of daily life seem to fade away, replaced by a sense of calm and tranquillity.
Mindfulness is often portrayed as an inward-looking process, solely focused on our breath. While inward attention is an important part, mindfulness is fundamentally about being present and acutely aware of our immediate surroundings – truly experiencing the now. As author Eckhart Tolle eloquently describes it, "Mindfulness is the practice to feel our deeper self which can only happen in the now when we are out of our thought (maybe just for a very few moments)."
Surfing offers a unique opportunity to cultivate mindfulness through movement. It provides a pathway to connect with nature, find inner peace, and develop a deeper appreciation for the ocean and its power. The principles of mindful movement mirror those of any mindfulness practice. We aim to bring our full attention to the present moment, experiencing the here and now. Our awareness shifts to our movement, focusing on our breath or the sensations within our body as we move.
For a surfer, "flow" represents a state of complete immersion and effortless movement while riding a wave. This state is characterized by seamless transitions between manoeuvres, a feeling of deep connection with the wave, and a sense of effortless grace. Essentially, it's the state in surfing where the rider feels fully in sync with the wave, performing manoeuvres with minimal conscious effort and maximum fluidity.
This "flow" state, in essence, embodies a supreme state of mindfulness. The surfer is completely focused on the now, that very moment – the only moment that truly exists. The noises of the modern world fades away, and there's a deep sense of connection with the ocean, the wave, and the self.
If I was to break it down, I would say that surfing cultivates mindfulness in the following ways:
There is a connection to nature as surfing immerses us in the natural world, allowing us to appreciate the power and beauty of the ocean. We become acutely aware of the wind, the waves, and the ever-changing conditions.
It forces us to focus on the present moment as the ever-changing nature of waves demands our full attention. We must constantly adapt, react, and make split-second decisions. This constant engagement with the present moment is a cornerstone of mindfulness.
We are forced to embrace the imperfections, we fall, we wipe out, and we don't always catch the perfect wave. Embracing these imperfections is crucial for growth and cultivating a non-judgmental attitude, key aspects of mindfulness.
There is a physical and mental release through the exertion of surfing can be incredibly grounding. It allows us to release pent-up energy and clear our minds of racing thoughts.
Surfing, at its core, is a practice of being present, connecting with nature, and embracing the ebb and flow of life. It's about connecting with something larger than myself, something wild and untamed. It's about rediscovering that sense of wonder and awe that we all felt as children.
What about you? Do you find yourself seeking moments of peace and connection in nature? How does surfing help you find your inner calm?
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